Saturday, June 27, 2009

On the Road to Dohuk

After a breakfast of börek in Iskan, Haji, Sdr, Mu and I set off for Dohuk, passing many familiar landmarks along the way... I always wondered what these be-flagged tents are used for, but unfortunately, I still don't know.
An hour and a half after leaving Hawler, it is time for a rest stop... in the part of the drive I hate the most when taking a night taxi to the border. It always seems that in the windiest parts in the mountains where there is almost no light except for the headlights is always the very place the drivers want to turn their heads around to see if I am paying attention to their Kurdish lessons.
We take a seat under a grassy roof for tea... I am made to feel just a little twinge of nerves by the fans that are wobbling overhead as they spin lazily suspended from the roof by what looks like nothing more than stripped twist-ties.
But despite the overhead hazards, this turns out to be a pretty good rest stop as the toilets are clean, the sound of the fountain (made by a big black hose suspended to the roof drizzling water into a tiled basin below) makes the place feel cool and... they have pets!

Börek 4 Breakfast

Here in Kurdistan, I cook my own breakfast as places where I would like to have breakfast usually don't open until noon. However, a couple of friends recently discovered a wonderful breakfast option - börek (Turkish pastries) plain or filled with meat or cheese. Although I usually only eat eggs or yogurt with honey when in Turkey, that is probably because I had never had Su Böreği or 'Water Borek'...

Since these friends found börek right here in Erbil, I have had it a few times (as take out), but yesterday was my first time to actually go to Roozer, the börek shop. We had a day trip to Dohuk planned and so Mu and I met Haji and Sdr there for an early breakfast.
Below is Mr. Yilmaz Aykan, the owner behind his wide variety of börek.
And here, a big plate of börek:
And just in case you want to try Roozer, but have as hard a time finding places as me, below is a picture of an easy landmark - the minaret of Haji Bekir Jeringar Mosque in Iskan. This is what can be seen across the street from Roozer... and if you get lost, just call the owner: 0750.729.0776.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

I can see by my right eye

I'd like to share with you a wonderful email that I (and other instructors) received from a student today:


Dear instructors

After I finished the Exam, I wanted to go to Iran for treatment. Fortunately, a group of doctors who they were from Jordon came to Arbil for several days to do some operation. So I saw them and they did the operation by modern instruments. Thanks to God, the operation was successful and the light return to my right eye. So I am very very happy now. In addition, I never ever forget what my instructors do for me and I never ever forget how they were so kindness with me when I was half-blind.

Best Wishes
Your Student

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

treadmill for sale

On entering the apartments this evening, we were greeted with a flyer stating "treadmill for sale, $600" - a good deal as the treadmill had only been purchased 3 months prior.

Moving time is hard for all, but especially for those who didn't plan on moving. For me, it is always hard to determine which emotion I feel more strongly; empathy (because I certainly have faced the uncertainty connected to a sudden change of plans), sadness (that a colleague, neighbor or friend is leaving) or jealousy (that the person moving is getting out instead of me)!

The taste of summer

OK... so many of the posts lately have all been about food. What else is there really to do in Hawler besides meet a friend for lunch or dinner? (That is one of my biggest problems).

But my latest favorite "find" has got to be the basil lemonade at Al Karam. Of course the owner, Mr. Bechara Choueiry, won't be pleased if you tell him the lemonade is the best item on the menu, but it isn't my fault this item is so delicious - tart, herby and refreshing. It seems that he opened Al Karam nine months ago (when he left Fairuz, which incidentally has closed it's doors only about two weeks ago), but it took me this long to find it... he told me that his new restaurant would be by the Ainkawa overpass, but as I didn't know the names of the overpasses or the way to say "overpass" in Kurdish, I didn't go. Now I know you just say, "Ainkawa jisr."

Bechara will tell you that a good chef is one who likes food... and therefore he should at least be a little fat. (I am not sure that I believe this, but it is true that the food here is better AFTER the "big" chef arrives... try after 1:00pm). 

Above find Bechara in his lovely dining space... and below in front of Al Karam with its clever logo, half of the Lebanese cedar superimposed over the Kurdish sun.
If you would like to know how this lovely summer drink tastes, it seems you just throw some lemon juice, less than the usual amount of sugar, water and fresh basil leaves into a blender. I am going to try this at home in Canada with frozen strawberries added.

PS. If you want to go to Al Karam, they also have fish tajin and fish falafel! But I have yet to try them as you must order a day in advance... Call: 0750.799.7979

PPS. L and S's favorite is the cheese rolls, but the Lebanese bread also is a highlight as it comes all hot and puffy from the over rather than flat, stacked and in little plastic baggies as in other Lebanese restaurants.

PPPs. The photos come from the owner's facebook photo page... he he.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Clearing the Freezer... of Kubbat Mousel

Photograph: Terry McCormick/Stacey International

The last time Remon was over, he commented on the state of my fridge/freezer (he was the second person to do so after Dk). And seeing as I will be leaving for summer holidays soon, I thought it was important to clean it out. I tried to get rid of everything that was not likely to EVER be eaten, leaving only one full shelf of (you guessed it) condiments: hot chilli sauce, tabasco, 3 kinds of mustard brought into Kurdistan via suitcase (mine, Dr. D's and S's), sun-dried tomatoes suspended in oil, spicy ketchup, coconut paste, chilli mayonnaise...

And then there was the freezer which yesterday evening contained only 2 full ice cube trays, a half bottle of peach vodka and one frozen kubbat Mousel! The plastic wrap on the kubbat said absolutely nothing except for "Alsalem" (the brand?) so I had no idea what to do with it. I rubbed it with olive oil and put it on a piece of tinfoil for baking (my favorite no fuss cooking method), but after baking it, I discovered that I should have boiled it and then fried it. For all of you that actually like this dish (I ate it because I am trying to empty my freezer), you can find interesting Mousel Kubbat trivia and the recipe here (where I stole the photo).

Monday, June 22, 2009

IKEA!!!

All the late night marking last month was HARD on my eyes! All these stupid light-saver bulbs and no really decent lamps (I'd like a halogen one) made me tired enough to head to Erbil Light Showroom (The lighting at Marina reminded me of my new purchase) where I purchased a really simple Ikea standing lamp.

What I really want however, is one of the "chandeliers" from the bazaars in Istanbul made of multiple hanging mosaic glass globes. I will put it over the dining table.

Safari in Kurdistan

Another little treasure left behind from S's visit. One night when in a mad chocolate craving, she came back with Safari chocolate imported from (no, not Belgium, Switzerland, France or even England) Turkey. Mmmm. With such exquisite wrapping, I am waiting for a real event at which to break it out.

So all of you curious about how it really tastes, you will have to go out and buy some... or wait until I am REALLY desperate.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Gullan Goes to Boston...

... sponsored by DJ Pup Dawg! OK, not only by DJ Pup Dawg, but that was the "partner" that surprised me the most. See below for the complete list. Gullan has been selected to attend the 4th ever Women2Women conference in Boston! (Congratulations Gullan!) The young women's conference is hosted by Empower Peace, "a new peace initiative launched with the goal of bridging the gap between Muslim and Arab youth, and youth in the United States... a program committed to breaking down cultural barriers through open dialogue promoting mutual respect, understanding and world peace."

Partners:
Lesley University
Program on Negotiation at Harvard University
Harvard University’s Institute of Politics
The Fletcher School of Tufts University
Polycom
VBrick
The Mason Fellow Program at the Kennedy School of Government
Governor of Massachusetts Deval Patrick
Massachusetts State Senator Joan Menard
The Charles Hotel
DJ Pup Dawg
Teamsters Local 25
Grossman Marketing
The Walden Woods Project.
The US Department of State
(Actually, the partners Polycom and VBrick sounded odd as well until I discovered they were all about video streaming/conferencing, etc...)

Anyway, we will see how well this initiative acheives its aims on Gullan's return.... I know that US-Middle East relations are an interest of hers. Even her choice of novel for her literature essay this year was on a related theme!

I wish her all the beston this, her SECOND trip to the US. She went last summer on the Iraqi Young Leaders Exchange Program! See article about the program written by one of our other students... bottom of page 15. We were proud of the students as the largest proportion of students selected for the program (from all of Iraq) seemed to be from our humble uni.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

2000 year old toothbrush?

To be truthful, I don't really know when it was discovered that Miswak (twigs from the Peelu tree) were effective teeth cleaners, but apparently the use of Miswak is widespread in the Muslim world as instructions to use this twig daily are written somewhere...

Anyway, even Wrigley's has done studies on the benefits of this twig for dental health. S received this one from a Sheikh who cures 'hysterical' women by smacking the bottoms of their feet with a wooden plank to make the djinns depart.

I wonder how she could leave this very interesting souvenir behind.

Running for Cover

This afternoon, while taking a break from doing next to nothing, I heard a rare sound... rain, and then hail! Finally, something to wash away the dust. If only it could also wash away the dust accumulating in my mind.

Anyway, it seems a suitable day for rain since I am feeling a little bit blue. Yesterday afternoon, S (my house guest) left with the insistence that she will NOT be back. With her, she took Fr, his son and J who are all off for the summer break. Yesterday evening, D came for dinner and he, Mu and I sat in the near dark (the electricity went out for nearly 2 hours) and traded dreams of upcoming vacations. This morning at 2:00 am, he left on the early flight to Istanbul. Now I am here near friendless waiting for July 8th and my flight to Stockholm.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Marina

As last night was S's last in Erbil, S, Mu and I decided to go for dinner at the "French" restaurant at the top of the "Sheraton" (quotations needed as the food is not really French and the Sheraton is not really a Sheraton), at the place where every evening, the same man croons songs like "Margaritaville" and "Leaving on a Jet Plane" in his distinctive scratchy, yet fortunately unobtrusive voice. Anyway, at the last moment when getting into the taxi, Mu changed the plan and instructed to driver to take us to Marina in Ankawa.

Although I read about Marina on "Gretta's" blog and had seen the massive signs around Ankawa, I had never been. In dry and dusty Erbil/Ankawa, I felt that "Marina" was a bit of an odd name for a restaurant, but my mind was open. We walked around the side of the reddish building with windows edged with contrasting white bricks, and finally entered a huge open space. The restaurant was huge... like a wedding hall. The lighting was dim, but the ceiling appeared to be a twilight painted sky complete with stars and the edges of the ceilings were lined with porch-like wooden beams with round little shingles at the edges where porch meets sky. In one corner, however, there was a raised section with sofas and the wall was like a country cabin (all made of small logs).

We sat down at our table in the sky section and proceeded to order. First came greens - marvelously arranged, but not as easy to eat as the lemon, huge radish and tomato had been left whole. We asked for more mint, dill and chilis, tabouleh, hummus (Gretta, you are right, it could be the best in Erbil/Ankawa), spinach pastries, spicy potatoes, greek salad and chicken wings... and all but the final two were good (Who puts mayonnaise in Greek salad?). The food was quite acceptable, the live Kurdish music (two groups of musicians taking turns - one more traditional and one slightly contemporary) was good... and the decor - definately a MUST SEE. I will try to take photos on my next visit: the sky, the porch, the log cabin and the at least 5 different competing types of lighting over in the bar area add to the interest (Erbil Light Showroom must have made a bundle on this place!).

Thursday, June 18, 2009

New City Loyalty Card

I was recently checking out New City's website to view pictures of the nasty motel I stayed in when I first arrived in erbil and discovered this... the New City Loyalty Card! What does this mean? Kurdistan is very much a cash society... I think there might still be that one cash dispensing bank machine near New City, but as far as I know, nobody uses credit cards anywhere except possibly the "Sheraton" hotel. I wonder if you can use this card like a credit card and get store points? (I also wonder whether or not this card really exists). If you know, please post a comment... Otheerwise I will have to head to New City to find out.

Pizza delivery?

About a month ago, a friend came to visit. Tired after a marathon catching up session, we were both too tired to cook and decided to order chicken saj from Saj Al Reef, a restaurant serving local and "Western" dishes. I knew they delivered as a colleague often ordered pizza from there (if only he would stop ordering that nasty dry chicken pizza). I rang up, but the man on the phone informed me that they don't deliver until after 7:00 pm. So I patiently waited only to find out that in fact, they couldn't deliver at all as the delivery guy's car was no longer working. More recently, I called back again and was told the guy with the car quit. No more Saj Al Reef delivery?

Anyway, I called around and got a number for Laffa, Lebanese fast food restaurant, from a friend. I tried calling and they came with the most delicious minty tabouleh and some chicken dishes. Last night, I called the same number for food to share with D and J for their weekly Wednesday night's viewing of "Top Gear". The guy came with the food, but he didn't come to D & J's flat as instructed, but to mine... and he came bearing food not from Laffa, but from Al Karam! Seems he quit his job at Laffa and moved to Al Karam, but is still willing to deliver. Either that or it is a conspiracy and all the Lebanese restaurants in Erbil are just one big conglomerate.

One thing that is certain, is that the phone numbers attached to food delivery here really belong to the guy with the car... NOT the restaurant.

Some useful numbers for men that deliver:

Laffa Kirkuk Road (the Ainkawa branch doesn't delivery): 0660.255.0044
Laffa's former delivery man (now at Al Karam?): 0750.422.4778
Saj Al Reef (in case they start delivering again): 0750.423.7358
Pizza Express (New City): 0750.444.7773

Tuesday, June 02, 2009

Hersch visits the Uni

Do you recognize the guy in this photo? From the movie Turtles Can Fly, it is Bahman Ghobadi's character 'Hangow', an armless boy from Halabja who has the ability to predict the future. He travels to a camp outside of Erbil with his sister who has a blind child, the product of a sex crime perpetrated by soldiers of Saddam. Along with the other children there, he earns his living by removing mines from local fields. The photo above is of him engaged in this occupation.

This year, our class (see picture below)watched this movie as a subject for class discussion, interpretation and analysis. When I told another teacher about our upcoming seminar, she mentioned that she knew Hersch, the boy who played 'Hangow'. She had met him near her home in Ankawa. He approached her and told her he had seen her in the bazaar a few days ago. Of course she immediately replied that she had also seen him, but in a movie.
Anyway, we invited Hersch to speak to the class. He came and it was interesting to hear his stories... He was spotted by Ghobadi who was apparently looking for an armless boy who could swim; hence he was quickly recruited for the role (lacking in large bodies of water, swimming is a rare talent in Kurdistan). According to Hersch, Ghobadi was a demanding director and not easy to work for, but he also stated he would rather work hard than break Ghobadi's heart.

Although it was nice to hear firsthand how the film was made and the actor's ideas about his own role in the movie, I was left with a lot to think about. I had been told that Hersch burned his hands in an electrical fire - a condition that should have been treatable, but because of poor medical attention, infection spread and he lost both arms. At that time in his life, it seems he lead a pretty difficult life in the streets in Hawler.

Now after participating in the movie, he no longer has to live his former life, but I wonder how things are for him now that he has had a glimpse of other realities and possibilities. He worked with a famous director as an actor. He received futher medical treatment in the US. But what about life from now...

Certainly I wish him all the best and hope that he will achieve his aim of working in other movies in the future. Inshahallah.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Öz-Has

As I often post photos of my plant babies, I thought that I should also post a photo of the nursery where they came from. While not the cheapest nursery in Hawler, Has is my favorite as the plants are healthy and beautiful.... and there is a goodly selection of plants that might be considered exotic: bird of paradise plants, bottle brush trees, a variety of palms for both inside and out (by the way, I do realize that "exotic" is relative to where you are from).

The picture below is what you will see from the road after you pass Rizgari Hospital and are on the way towards Modern City.
Below is something fragrant and beautiful which I have as yet NOT purchased for my balcony...

When I arrive (if on my own), the greenhouse full of house plants is the first place I head for...

My last visit was with Lesley, who lent me her camera to take these photos. She wanted to browse and possibly buy another houseplant for her thriving collection. She also bought me a little gift - an orange gerbera! (Thank you Lesley, I haven't killed it... yet.)

And below is Ali, who always makes us sit for a cup of Turkish coffee before we pay for our finds and head home.

Armed and Hungry?

But unlike at the bank, the bakeries and coffee shops don't provide a place to leave your mobile phones... or guns?

Friday, May 29, 2009

Smell of Petrol

For just about two years, most of us Naz CIty residents have been wondering why it is that upon our return home each day that we are greeted with such an overwhelmingly strong smell of petrol it is like a sharp stinging slap in the face. Many of us have been worried that it was due to some kind of gas or petrol leak that could end in something dire.

Mystery Solved?
I have recently been informed that it is not in fact petrol, but kerosene. Could it really be true that the cleaners clean the stone floor in the hallways and stairs with kerosene? If so, I hope that none of my smoker neighbors (or guests) light up on their way in or out.

PS. Is it normal to clean anything but engines with kerosene?

Just like home...


After a hard week of struggling to get caught up with marking, to get my exams ready, to help students with last minute qeries about their essays, etc... today was a welcome break. The whole day felt almost like a day back home. After a leisurely (and happy - see below) brunch, I went shopping and bought a dress with such lovely embroidery, it inspired envy among my friends. After this, although people rarely ring my doorbell anymore, I had a steady stream of visitors (although one was just a colleague needing a corkscrew). But the highlight of the day was really opening the edible treasures brought from the UK by my houseguest! So nice in a landlocked place to have smoked salmon as an appetizer followed by mussels cooked in a garlic and white wine sauce. Now I am really itching for vacation where I will be able to stuff myself silly with sushi, grilled prawns, sauteed scallops, cedar planked salmon, raw oysters... and maybe even lobster!

Shopping with MAXI MONEY

Eggs, hot chilis, tomatoes, bread... It seems that I haven't been shopping for anything other than groceries in years. This seems strange as I used to go shopping EVERY weekend when I first arrived... Ah, all the wonders of the sprawling bazaar; Indian kohl, henna, spices, gold from Dubai and India, 50-year old handmade kilims, carpets & camel saddlebags, cheap plastic shoes from China, synthetic "Islamic fashion" from Turkey and piles of soap from Syria! But as for my own clothes? With the exception of a few rather uncomfortable synthetic appropriately modest shirts, I buy all my clothes overseas.

So today was rather an event... While at lunch at Bakery & More, T reached into her purse and pulled out some MAXI MONEY! Before when you wanted to get to Bakery & More, you could just ask the taxi driver to take you to Sky Cafeteria... now it is MAXIMALL, which is located directly across from Bakery & More.
MAXIMALL is also filled with Turkish clothes (like the bazaar), but unlike the bazaar, it isn't all synthetic... it just looks like regular shop, containing clothes from Turkish high street brands. Think H&M. I actually bought stuff. After this experience, I have decided that I should get over my skepticism and try Istanbul Bazaar and the shops in Rhine Mall in Iskan.

Happy Friday Brunch

Living in Erbil, one has to work hard to find ways to amuse oneself and one's friends... sometimes one resorts to the downright childish... Above simmers my version of Turkish breakfast favorite, Menemen (eggs poached on top of a vegetable saute: mine includes onion, cubed eggplant, green chilis, orange bell pepper and tomatoes).

It is regretful that despite the addition of a little cheese and fresh basil from my balcony garden, the end result (below) wasn't quite as happy!

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Recipe for a Terrible Sleep

Ingredients:
summer heat (yes, evenings are hot already)
dysfunctional air conditioner
mosquitos

Instructions:
1. Turn on air conditioner until room is cold.
2. Turn off air conditioner (as it is too cold even on low setting to leave on) and sleep.
3. Wake up with several mosquito bites stinging.
4. Get up and search for plug in apparatus that releases Raid mosquito killer into air; try to avoid inhaling mosquito killer in too deeply yourself.
5. Rub whatever cream you have onto swollen bites and make a mental note to try to buy after-bite cream or calamine lotion.
6. Get into bed and turn on air conditioner again to wait until cool enough to turn off. (If you suffer from 'dry eye', this is a good time to apply eye drops.)
7. Listen for mosquito whine (they are easier to kill after being drugged with Raid) until you drift asleep.
8. Wake up hot and sweaty and play with the air conditioner again...

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Roxana Saberi: Out of Iranian Prison, Into a Soap Opera


Last month, after frantically trying to find a Ghobadi film (subtitled in English) to watch and discuss with my class (I have been an even bigger fan after meeting him at the Deutscherhof last year) I stumbled across the open letter written by Ghobadi to his fiancee, Roxana Saberi! I had no idea. Of course now this is old news, but I couldn't help but post a link to this story simply because I liked the title. Please click the link to read the WHOLE (including the info about her release from prison) article and not just the juicy bits I pasted below.

Roxana Saberi: Out of Iranian Prison, Into a Soap Opera:

"Even as Saberi's parents rejoiced at her release there was additional drama in front of the prison. Also waiting there was internationally acclaimed filmmaker Bahman Ghobadi, who had published an open letter last month declaring that Saberi was his fiancee. He told TIME that he believed it was in great part because of his endeavors that Saberi was being released so quickly. He said he had a meeting with government and judiciary officials a few days ago, in which he explained to them the importance of Saberi appearing at the opening of his new film on Thursday at the Cannes Film Festival, 'because she was going to talk about the Persian Gulf. I told them it would be good for Iran.' Ghobadi has cited Saberi as a co-writer on his latest film."

There was clear friction between Ghobadi and Saberi's parents, who kept themselves several feet apart from the director. At one point, Ghobadi approached Saberi's visibly shaken mother, but she pushed him away, motioning him away with her hands. After Ghobadi's letter, Reza Saberi announced that he could not confirm Ghobadi as his daughter's fiancee. One source close to the family said they perceive him as taking advantage of her recent newsworthiness to publicize his film, and wonder why he was not speaking out for her before her case attracted such international attention. Ghobadi said he had been ordered to keep silent by sources he could not reveal, and finally broke his silence when he "could no longer hold it."

Friday, May 08, 2009

Kurdish home away from home - Sweden

Turkish ideas about issues related to identity never fails to surprise me. Before booking this summer's ticket to Sweden, I knew that Sweden was one of the "gateways" out of Iraq since they have friendlier immigration policies, that they have a significant diaspora community (about 50,000?) and that some of those in the Swedish diaspora are now returning back... to study in our university!

What I did NOT know is that some people in Turkey believe that the Kurds and the Vikings were blood relatives. This claim was discovered in a Turkish newpaper by another Turkish news agency, Zaman. I have never really read Zaman, but as its biases are somewhat in contrast to my own, it might make an occasionally interesting read. This article presents a short history of the contact between the Swedes (and the vikings) and the Kurds... including the 2002 honor killing which shocked Swedes and others. I was thinking that it might be interesting to try to visit the Kurdish Women's Association in Sweden and the Kurdish Student Academic Association (KSAF) in Sweden as it might be interesting/useful to do a little research before the next academic year... (students in our university also go through a kind of culture shock - the university culture is different to what exists outside in the community), but so far, I have not found any addresses for these associations... nor for that matter, for the Kurdish Institute in Stockholm.

Wednesday, May 06, 2009

To Sweden - Alternatives?

On searching the Erbil International Airport site, I found these other Airlines operating between Sotckholm and Erbil: Viking Airlines and Resnu Airlines. Upon visiting the Viking site, I found information indicating that the flights to Erbil were operating in coperation with Aer Olympic. The Air Olympic site will allow me to book a flight online (on a Viking plane) at the cost of $4,998 SEK (or $630 US) with all flights leaving and returning on Wednesdays. I called Resnu, as they would not allow me to book online, and they said they fly with Viking, but had no connection with Aer Olympic. All their flights leave and return on Tuesdays (strange that Viking would have planes coming and going for 2 different airlines on two consecutive days of the week...). Flights in July and August through Resnu cost $1000 US. Today is a Wednesday and there appear to be flights coming and out on Viking on the airport's website, so I guess I do this online and forget atrocious Atrosh? Please PLEASE you travellers to and from Sweden, share your experiences...

***************************UPDATE ***************************

5 hours later: As I was leaving the university today, I called Resnu and asked them outright about the Wednesday flights. Kawa from Resnu gave me a number and I discovered that Aer Olympic operates out of Miran Aviation located next to the Me & You ice cream shop in Iskan. He claims Atrosh no longer flies (which is strange as they still answer the phone and quote prices and flight times), but explained that Resnu are charter flights, but Aer Olympic run regular flights (as of 2 months ago). If you are bringing tons of goodies back from overseas, better to go with Aer Olympic as, while both use Viking planes, the Aer Olympic planes and the luggage allowance are bigger (30 kg as opposed to 20 kg). COST: $650 USD (less or more depends on how much in advance you book).

Atrosh Air... Atrocious?


As anyone who has ever tryid to find cheap ways in and out of Kurdistan knows, there are no cheap routes... except possibly overland! What's worse, is that with the exception of Austrian Airlines - which will cost you a wallet whalloping $1,700 just to London, the reputations of the airlines offering flights out seem to be sketchy: Atrosh to Sweden, Kurdistan Airlines or Zozik to Germany, Zagros or Kurdistan to Dubai, Flying Carpet to Beirut. This summer, I am considering a new route... Rather than take Atlas Jet through Istanbul and deal with less than exemplary treatment by the staff of Atlas Jet in the air and the Istanbul Airport, I am thinking of flying through Stockholm on Atrosh. The thing that worries me is the possibility of the airline cancelling my flight, which is a charter, which would mean that I would forfeit my SAS flight to London (which I intend to schedule for 4 days later as I already know that delays of hours and/or days is possible), or be stuck in Sweden on the way back with no way of getting to Erbil.

If any reader has flown Atrosh Air, please share your experiences as the more I read about Stockholm, the more I think it is a great place for a few days stopover.

Sunday, May 03, 2009

This April's herbs


Sorry for boring you with pictures of my "green babies" (as Mu calls them). I don't have a real baby or pets to bore you with pictures of, so... ) My herb garden this year contains... very slowly sprouting Sage, plenty of Basil babies, Coriander that we will soon be able to start picking... and Mint which recently reached adulthood.

Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary...

While not quite Mary, I have always thought of myself as having a black thumb - ask the dying marigolds on the window sill, I have managed to keep some of my balcony garden alive... and it is one of the few things that cheers me up in the morning... Here are some of the plants that are starting to bear fruit...
Strawberries remind me of home. I regret to say, I ate this one yesterday, but there is a new one coming.

Kumkwats, so delicious... you can eat them, peel and all... or slice one in two and drop it in your gin and tonic.
And finally, who knew that a budding lemon looked like this? I finally have my own lemon tree... now if only I can stop myself from picking the blossoms (which smell Jasmin-like) so that the lemons will grow.

Stuffed camels, Singing camels, Cloned camels....

My biggest regret from my trip through Rajastan, India, is that I got sick in Jaipur - my illness stealing several days of my intinerary, including Jaisalmer - the city described as a golden mirage. In Jaisalmer, it was plan to take a camel safari into the desert and possibly even camp among the dunes. Sigh.

I missed my chance to ride camels, and I refuse to pay money simply to sit on the back of a nasty old camel tethered at the side of the road neat a tourist attraction in Turkey just so I can say that I can have my picture taken on a camel. Somehow it is NOT the camel experience I always wanted to have. And by always, I mean since high school. My first work in Arabic was actually camel (taught me by one of the women I was supposed to be teaching English literacy to in the UK). So how did I end up in stuck between Syria and Saudi in a place where instead of camels, I get dust storms? My only came is the one you see in the upper left corner - a silly stuffed version that was a gift from a friend in Dubai.

In Taiwan, I was gullible enough to email in to the Taipei Times to try and get tickets to see Shuma, the singing camel. There was a nearly full page article about this incredible camel troup that was to "perform" at Chiang Hai Shek Memorial Hall. How stupid did I feel when a colleague realized it was April 1st. I guess that we were tired enough from working without enough sleep for several weeks in a row to forget what day it was. Since Shuma (does she even exist?) performing in Erbil (or anywhere else for that matter) is an unlikelihood (there could be a Shuma- even if she is just a normal non-singing camel!), and I have neither the time nor the money to travel to Rajastan for a camel trek... perhaps the next camel plan should be to Dubai to see Injaz (the Arabic name of the world's first cloned camel) before, like Dolly, she has to be put down... I will put this on next year's travel wishlist along with Jordan (camel trek possibilities?), Syria and Iran...