Sparks Fly

Photo by Lesley
Last month, a number of us at the university were invited to a member of staff's wedding. It was a weeknight evening and many of were happy to attend what turned out to be a rather spectacular and not-so-typical wedding (in my limited experience). It was special in that the hall was not the usual cement hall with men on one side and women on the other, but a spectacularly decorated place with mixed seating. The bride and groom made an impressive entry along a red carpet lined with sparklers to the tune of Pachabel's Cannon in A. When they reached the dance floor, the music stopped and "the Lady in Red" (or was it "when a man loves a woman"?) came on, the couple slow danced, and then the music changed back and they continued to their stage at the front. The couple then sat for photos (more typical) but before people got up to greet them, people (again of both sexes!) were already out of their seat and on the dance floor - two lines; but separated not by sex, but age... one of the circles was all children.

..and yet another wedding...

On Saturday, I accompanied Vin to Salahaddin for yet another wedding- this time the wedding of her friend, a member of the Kurdish diaspora in Sweden to his distant cousin here in Kurdistan. Unfortunately, it seems she wasn't able to leave the country with her new husband without first having a reception in Kurdistan (perhaps to prove to everyone that they really are married?) I imagine there will be another gorgeous ceremony in Sweden.
We sat in our plastic chairs on the edge of the spare concrete basement-like wedding hall with our coats on; it's colder in Salahaddin. These women; however, had other ways of keeping warm. They danced around the hall to the never-ending Kurdish wedding dance tracks until the men, on the other side at the plastic tables, finished eating. I take it it was the women and children's turn next, but I'm not sure as we left before that happened.

Halay

Shayi in Sorani, Halay in Kurmanci - it is traditional Kurdish dancing... and the name of the live music club I went to on Tuesday night in Van before coming to Tatvan. Such clubs being conspicuously absent in Erbil, it was fabulous to go out. The club was empty to begin with but soon filled with local guys and some visitors from Iran who joined the local guys on the dance floor. The group played all the Kurdish music I hear all the time being played at Batmas restaurant in Erbil (but with a slight rock edge). They were great!

Then last night I came to Tatvan and got to join in the dancing myself. As it turns out, the owner of the construction company that built the apartment complex I live in in Erbil is from Tatvan and the town was full of people comıng for his little brother`s weddıng. It was huge and as not all the guests could fit in the hall, the women were inside and the men outside. With slight trepidation (I am not so comfortable crashing weddings at which where I don't know anyone) I entered and the groom`s mother (all in black with a white headscarf) greeted me warmly depite my being a stranger. I then got kissed by all the women there I happened to pass by and was led out to join the dancing. I didn't stay long, but I did meet not only the groom, but also hıs older brother who later gave me an invitation and a brochure for his luxury hotel in Cappadoccia. He was pleased to meet someone living in the building his company constructed it seems. I will let you know how it is after I reach Cappadoccia later this month.

Hawler Wedding Banquet

So what happens at a Kurdish wedding in Hawler? I still don't know as I seem only to come in part way through. At this particular wedding, I experienced the banquet part. I don't know if and when there is an actual ceremony (I guess it was before I arrived), but at the banquet, guests sit and the bride and groom visit each table to shake hands and take pictures with the guests. Then there is Kurdish dancing where guests form lines and hold hands by thier pinkies and dance. Finally the food comes, big trays full of fried meat... and big surprise, there is no champagne to toaste the happy couple... in fact, no alcohol of any kind.... I enjoyed the wedding immensely, but had to go out and eat again afterwards as I couldn't manage any of the food on my plate at the banquet.

New City Wedding 1

Yesterday we went to Nazaarmall as a break from New City... much better! I was a bit hung over, so didn't really enjoy the experience as much as I should have: lots of products not available at New CIty... and the usual shopping frenzy. S found a really pretty plate in a pile of random patterns... It was the only one, and T (deciding she like it too) started rifling through them like a madwoman. In the end, S had to give it to her.

On the way out, we ran into B and decided to share a cab. After arriving home, we were suprised to see a wedding party celebrating on the grass right inside the gate. I was greeted by these two little girls. I wanted to take their photo, but I had no camera... I quickly ran home to get it, but on returning found that there was no memory card in my camera. This was taken after a second trip to my ugly green bungalow.

New City Wedding 2

These women were lovely. After having their photos taken they each individually wanted to look at the photo, and put their arms around me.

New City Wedding 3

At this point, I had to escape the melee because everyone wanted to either take a photo with me... or have me take their picture. As my camera battery died, I beat a hastry retreat... to find S and Z standing on the sidelines laughing because T had been dragged into the crowd of merry-makers and had people tugging at her from every direction. Sounds much like the community S met when she went to XX (see October's archives).