Environs of Hotel Miroğlu

This is my second morning of waking up in a comfortable double bed in a room with matching decor. After tomorrow, Ramadan will be over and I will even be able to order coffee in the lobby any tıme I please to add to the luxury. It has only been two days, but already Erbil feels like something from days long past. The thought of returning makes me want not to travel and explore, but enjoy the smooth sıdewalks here - no need to skip over rubble... I can look longingly at designer sunglasses I can't afford in shops in the bazaar, buy cheap clothes (the ones in Erbil are from Turkey anyway)and spend evenings in restaurants serving cheap and incredibly delicious food ($3.00 US). The 'uniform' for women is much the same as Erbil, long-sleeved tops, full length skirts, headscarves (and even the occassıonal burka - but to a lesser percentage). However, the clothes are tighter, brighter... We pass ATMs and other signs of modernization (not to be confused with Westernization) on the street! We pass markets selling fresh vegetables, ıncluding greens and even fresh herbs. But best of all, music (Kurmanji folk and folk-modern) ıs playing, there are children running amok, girls sitting on the grass by the city wall and showing off their bazaar purchases to each other, women are laughing and people smıle and treat us in a friendly manner. No hostile stares, no hissing or spitting. I guess from this, you may be getting a picture of the less pleasing aspects of Erbil rather than the pleasant side of Diyarbakır.