Winter Break 2009-2010

Erbil:
Winter break started in Erbil this year with lovely librarian L's guests arriving to spend Christmas and New Year's right here! There was also a party with white elephant gift exchange at C and M's place. Perhaps the best part of the party however, was not the gift exchange, but rather a game in which we were given a list of song titles to decipher: songs such as Approach Everyone Who is Steadfast. Do you know this song? (answer at bottom).

Vienna: This year I was lucky enough to have a stopover in Vienna on the way to Canada. Fr and family were on a similar itinerary so together we headed (just before it started to snow) to the Christmas market in front of Vienna's impressive City Hall. I bought my mother one of Vienna's famous snow globes.
In the evening, I headed downtown for a piece of Sacher Torte at the Sacher Hotel (the lit up building on the right in below photo) and then to the Vienna State Opera (behind me) for a performance of Verdi's La Forza Del Destino. However, I recommend that if you visit Vienna during the winter holiday season, you skip this opera and opt instead for a performance either here or at Volksopera of Strauss' Die Fledermaus.
Saint John:
After a long journey (including a nearly 30 minute run through the Frankfurt Airport and some frantic and slightly acrobatic queue-jumping: Do NOT transfer through this airport if you don't have at least 2 hours), I arrived in the Atlantic harbor city of Saint John, New Brunswick. I was met there by my mother and her little dog. Shitzu's don't deal with the cold very well, but mom's dog was clearly more prepared for winter than me!
This year, Mom had two boarders from the nearby university. We did our best to introduce them to some Christmas traditions... like eggnog and Christmas crackers, putting out milk & cookies Santa and hanging a sock. (Thanks to L & visitors for introducing Mu to the same back in Erbil).

(Answer: Approach Everyone Who is Steadfast = Oh, Come All Ye Faithful).

Doha by Night

One of the highlights of Doha (for me) was the "nightlife". Not the dancing in nightclubs and bars (if they exist), but rather the wandering around the city, through little side streets flanking the old bazaar. The entire city looks a lot more attractive bathed in the glow of a variety of illuminations.

The picture to the left is the Qatar Islamic Culture Center. Too bad it wasn't open as it aims its message at non-locals: to "motivate Non-Muslims to become more informed about Islam" and to "enlighten non-Arab Muslims about all matters in relation to their faith." I suppose I need both informing and enlightening... but on all varieties of things beyond Islam.

The photo above is of the Museum of Islamic Art designed by architect I.M. Pei. Unfortunately, it was closed each of the several times we attempted to go. Over Eid, it seems there was only one brief window of opportunity and we missed it.
Above is the silvery skyline as seen from a dock near the museum.
And finally, welcome to my favorite of all the places we visited in Doha - Souk Waqif. It has been most pleasantly renovated and is now a hang out for locals, expats and tourists; men and women...

Below is a strange performance, presumably put on by non-Qataris where pale ethereal (with the exception of the red yarn-like wigs) figures danced inside of giant bubbles... As for my group, we didn't stop to watch, in our desperate search for culinary satisfaction.
Finally, after edging past a few stray giraffes near the Bismillah Hotel, we decided on a fragrantly enticing Indian restaurant, although options included Moroccan, Indonesian, French, and even Iraqi.

I even did a little shopping in the bazaar (mostly books and postcards). Finally, I went into a shop to buy someone a souvenir, a string of amber prayer beads (tesbi) and was shocked at the prices. Then the guy in the shop rolled out a special pouch containing what he claimed to be the very best... Iraqi tesbi!!! Well, now I know that for Middle Eastern souvenirs, Iraq is as good as anywhere else. I have to scour the bazaars in Kurdistan a little more carefully.
And finally, when leaving the bazaar, we heard music and realized that some sort of event was about to begin. We wandered over to check it out and were greeted with the sight below. Seems local Qataris, while they can completely turn a blind eye to scantily clad foreign female joggers, they are still very much traditional when it comes to the dress and behavior of their own.

(In case you can't see the figures clearly, the women are the ones in black on the left).

Exploring Doha - Eid Qurban

Last year over Nawruz (the shared Kurdish/Persian New Year) , a few colleagues and I traveled to Lebanon and had an absolutely fantastic time. Now when there is a week off approaching, we quickly start planning where the next trip will be. For Eid Qurban, 2009 (yes, I am posting VERY late), the decision was Doha, Qatar and/or Manama, Bahrain. I know that these may not strike everyone as the Middle Eastern destinations topping everyone's travel must-do list; however, with less than a week off, practicalities must come into play. In the case of Doha, the decision was largely decided by the fact that Gulf Air had just starting offering DIRECT FLIGHT from ERBIL to BAHRAIN!
Having just come from land-locked Erbil, the first sight of Doha was rather refreshing... Even before reaching the bay, I could feel the ocean breeze and (here I must admit that I have an inexplicable fondness for palm trees) couldn't help myself from smiling just at the sight of the gently waving palms.
Doha was equipped with many modern amenities and for us, the first stop was to avail ourselves of the shopping facilities, restaurants and cinemas on offer in one of the many many bland, but convenient shopping centers. In fact, all three of our traveling trio had brought extra bags packed inside our bags to fill with those items as yet unavailable in Kurdistan - brown rice, exotic cereals (like flavored instant oatmeal), English Christmas sweets, puddings & preserves... English-language novels, non-pirated DVDs, and more (most of all this at Marks & Spencer's... although the picture above was taken of the staff at Lush).
We were then ready to explore the bay. The corniche was a little over 5km long and made me more than a little envious. Not only can expats enjoy relatively beautiful nice scenery while getting in a little exercise, but they (including expat women) can run in shorts and tank tops. I am stuck in full length sweats staring at the road along the inside of a drab wall in the complex I live in going around and around like a hamster in a cage.
Although kind of cheesy, we also went for a little ride in a kind of motorized dhow-ferry. (There wasn't much to do as many culture venues were closed for Eid). The water was lovely, but the music was loud and the other passengers confirmed that the shorts and tank-top outfits visible on the cornichewere NOT de rigeur for all women in Doha (see below)!

Thanksgiving -text to come

Baghdadi Black Market?

This morning, as I was getting ready for work, BBC was in Baghdad in Iraq's National Museum.... Thanks to Google, I - and millions of others - will be able to view thousands of Iraqi treasures from this museum online (as the security is still not good enough for the museum to open its doors to the public) .

Wanting to see what kinds of treasures we were talking about, I searched the internet and came across the VERY COOL playing cards above on the museum's own site. It seems they were given out to soldiers in order to help them understand the importance of the cultural sites many of them were being deployed to... and to understand the history and culture of Iraq. I wonder if these cards are going to be sold at the museum's gift shop in some distant future when Baghdad becomes a tourist mecca again.

Until then, it is going to irritate me that the only people I know that have been to Hatra and other archeological and historic sites in Iraq are the military... and that the only people with these cool playing cards are (again) the military. I am thinking about asking my students who weekend in Baghdad to check and see if I can get these from the black market in Baghdad. Until then...

PS. Feel free to take a virtual walk though the Baghdad Museum here.

The Mukhtar

Recently, the first of my English Composition class were due. And as you might imagine, in the anticipation of assignment due dates and midterm exams, there was an increase in the number of student absences. And following these absences was an increase in the number of students visiting my office... many armed with "mukhtars". (Actually, as a mukhtar is the elected head of a village or neighborhood; students in reality just held letters from a mukhtar). These letters stated facts like, "This student had a family problem and was in Baghdad from date to date." "This student was ill on date. "

In Iraq, these letters function much like a letter from a notary, but... and here come the questions... WHO is this mukhtar? Is he the student's uncle, father, brother? Is he someone with whom the student's family has connections? Is it possible to bribe a mukhtar?And what weight do we have to give this piece of paper?

Luckily, this is not a real problem for me as long as students must keep track of how many classes they miss and mind that they do not exceed the permissible absences as outlined by university policy. A mukhtar doesn't come into the equation (except possibly in the case of long-term illness and a request for deferral - but even then, why not a doctor's note? And not from your uncle, the eye doctor if your problem is a gastro-intestinal disorder) as it doesn't matter whether the absence is for legitimate reasons or not... An absence is an absence and students will be marked absent accordingly. They are just advised to save those set number of absences for times when they really need it (like when they are ill or have relatives visiting from out of town and have to help their mothers prepare the dolma).

Botan & Bnar - A Long Engagement

Some weeks ago (yes - I am really behind in posting), a student (let's call him Botan) came
to my office with another student (Bnar?) and offered me baklava. I asked what the occasion was and they announced their engagement. I was a little surprised, but happy for them as I knew them both well having taught Bnar in 2006-7 and Botan the following year. I asked when the weddign would take place and they explained that although Bnar would graduate at the end of this academic year, they would wait the two years until Botan graduated before actually getting married. I offered my congratulations and they both (!!!!) hugged me. (This is surprising as some of the students following a stricter path of Islam will lay their assignments on my desk to avoid accidentally touching a woman.)

Anyway, after this incident, I asked some of the students in the new year why Aysha (not real name) had to leave the university in order to be married. I was informed that she got engaged and that it was not the done thing to have a long engagement... people would talk!

So much like anywhere else, customs vary from one to another. Omer can't shake my hand, but Botan can hug me. Bnar can be engaged for 2 years before marriage, but 4 months is too long for Aysha. On the Internet, there are so many opposing views as to what is allowed in Islam.

I guess it is all relative. I am glad to find that at least I am in a place where people have the right to make their own choices about how to follow.

Botan & Bnar: All the best to the both of you!

Appreciation Dinner at the NEW Abu Shahab

The time passes and yet I write nothing on my blog. Alas, this is a sad state because it is always possible that my lackadaisical approach to writing could be interpreted by some as a lack of events taking place in Hawler. This is not really the case. Work life has kept me, to use an outdated phrase that so many here seem to know and love, "as busy as a bee". Anyway, not all work-related chores have been tasking.

At the beginning of the school year, while trying to drum up more applicants for our programme, we asked students to get the word out that we were holding an "Open Campus Day (lovingly shortened to OCD - and no, none of our remaining staffers have OCD) and help us to give campus tours to prospective students and their families.

To thank student for their efforts, our department invited all of those who volunteered to dinner at a local favorite, Abu Shahab. I think the staff at the new (and much more pleasant) Abu Shahab had never seen such a huge party before. They encouraged us to a set menu so that they could deliver everyone's food at roughly the same time (odd thing to worry about as I have never known restaurants here to worry about presenting meals to diners at a single table at the same time)... also a shame as I have been waiting to try the famous ??? (I forgot what it is called, but is essentially biryani baked in a pastry shell).

Anyway, this new branch is at the crossroads of the road into Ankawa and Gulan Street and (in summer) situates a goodly number of tables in the grass outside the restaurant, grass which is interrupted with fountains, streams and bordered on one side by a rose gardens. As you can see, everyone was in high spirits (most of the students seem to prefer the food at Abu Shahab over the food of expat favorite, Bakery& More)... In addition, the can smoke shisha here...
And here comes the army of waiters necessary to serve our table of 40+.

Mmm... mixed grill, lamb quzi, and the remains of the multitude of side dishes... the stewed apricots being my favorite...

Thanks to Manhal for the photos

Trick or Treating in the M Block

Unfortunately, Halloween in Kurdistan is usually a bit of a non-event. An afternoon kids party after which the kids go around to the few doors of people their mothers know. This year, I sent an email to the residents of M Block asking that anyone who could provide sweets for a few costumed kids draw a pumpkin, bat or other Halloween image and tape it to their door. Frankly, I was surprised at how many came! 
Fr and Co (adults above) provided a Jack-o-lantern and games for the kids. 
Below, Fr plays "What time is it, Mr. Wizard?" with the kids. 
Post games, us adults sat around drinking spooky punch and watching the kids play. 

Jemma'iye - Yezidi's Feast of the Assembly

I finally made it! On my fourth October in Kurdistan, I finally made it to the Feast of the Assembly - the week-long celebration in Lalish where Yzidi pilgrims from all over the world make their way to Lalish. I arrived in Kurdistan in 2006 and within a week of my arrival, a group of professors was taken to this festival. This was the first time the festival was held since the US invasion on Iraq... and the last for some time. Shortly after the festival in 2006, a number of events, including the honor killing of Du'a and the killing of a number of Yezidis on a bus in Shekhan, caused the festival to be cancelled. This year was a special opportunity.

We drove to the start of the road to Lalish. There were cars parked along the road for as far as the eye could see. We abandoned our car, leaving the driver to find a place to park and started along the road into the temple area. Although there are cars here, not everyone could enter. Most pilgrims were on foot, some carrying bedding, buckets, food and all sorts of things. We went on the 11th, but many had arrived on the 7th and many more planned to find a post to camp and stay until the 14th.
Below, one of our group (blond hair) stops to pass some time with some Yezidi boys. There were people everywhere and it was hard to find a spot to stop and rest... and everywhere you stopped, somebody wanted to chat in English... even if they only possessed a few words of English. One such boy went to a booth to buy a disposable camera to photograph the foreigners he had provided "translation" for. 

From here, we started to climb in order to find a good view of the proceedings. There were people everywhere: people sleeping, cooking and eating, putting on makeup behind make-shift screens, then  going out and flirting and returning to apply more make-up. As Yezidis are only able to marry other Yezidis, this festival is one of the main places where the young can find their future spouses. 
These little girls were members of a lucky group which managed to get a spot on the balcony of a building where they could have relative privacy... Others camped in more open spots, pitching tents made of sticks and blankets. 
In truth, I came hoping to see the special sama, a sort of sacred dance where the Baba Sheik dressed in a black robe and a head gear leads the elders (in white) around the sacred fire 7 times (to represent the 7 archangels?). Onlookers then kiss their hands and press them to their forheads and offer praise to Melek Taus, the peacock angel. Unfortunately, the crowd was wearing and we were quickly tired. We tried to return to the main area (below) to find a stall to get some tea, but on the way down the narrow and steep hill, we were pushed, shoved, groped and were witness to children being nearly trampled. And yet, some of the kids in the midst of this melee seemed to be having the time of their lives. 
Not so our group: by the time we reached the bottom, we decided to skip tea and head home. I must recommend that if you have never been to Lalish, it is best to go when there is no festival taking place for your first visit. 

Octoberfest.. again

To be honest, Octoberfest was a little anticlimactic this year. Why? Because the only reason for going (the big event at the Deutscherhof is German Reunification Day) is to enjoy the German sausages and draft beer specially brought in for that day. The problem this year? No sauerkraut. In any case, Haci (the guy in the photo at left - thanks for the picture Lesley) enjoys a draft wheat beer... a break from his usual EFES.

Access Graduation 2009

On October 8th (yes, I am still behind on posting), the School of Access (my department) held its first ever graduation - much thanks to colleague Dk who thought this would be a good idea and worked hard to see it actualized. And in fact, although it was not a degree program graduation, but rather the graduation from the 2 year preparatory English program, it did seem to be meaningful to students here (who love to receive certificates). Below is a bevy of beauties all decked out in local finery. I particularly like the garb of G, the girl 3rd from the left. She always manages to have a style all her own. She informed me that the gold (!!!) necklace she is wearing with all the strings of coins radiating out from the center has a special name and meaning in Kurdistan... If only I could remember what it was (I will try to ask and post in a comment).Despite a relatively short period for planning, the whole event went off without any glitches. Seats near the stage were reserved for the graduating students and everyone knew where to sit and what to do. In the photo below, students file in and find their seats. Note a number of what Kurdistan might consider "mini-skirts"! There are so few of these special events which warrant dressing up.
While students, staff and guests filed in, they were entertained with a slide show of photos taken over the last two years. This was a big hit.
And finally, the receiving of certificates. While most of the young men were as dressed up as the girls (suits and even ties), H wore his usual... but he managed to make the VC laugh.
And after the ceremony was over and people were standing around talking and getting ready to go, some students were already in the library uploading their photos to Facebook. One girl loaded her photos under the heading, "One of the best days of my life"! I only find it strange in retrospect that so few students purchased the special Access Class of 2009 T-shirts that Dk printed up.

Late Friday Mornings

These are the Friday mornings I love: Waking up late enough to have company for breakfast... lingering over several cups of brewed Ceylon tea, served with the strongly brewed tea in the bottom of the glass and topped off with as much hot water as needed to reach the desired strength... maybe even sweetened with a cube or two of brown sugar brought back from a supermarket in Turkey; not bothering to clean up the remains of a breakfast of bread fresh from the Istanbul bakery, olives, a variety of cheeses, sliced cucumber and tomatoes... and maybe even some menemen (eggs poached on top of stewed vegetables and sucuk (spicy Turkish sausages made from chicken) topped with condiments from home: Sriracha hot sauce, Coleman's mustard...

It is also important to have the right music to match the mood. I don't have a stereo, so my laptop perches on top of a couple of computer speakers on a side table in my kitchen. The music is one of a collection of songs given me by a former colleague, a politics professor from Turkey. The particular song is Allı Turnam, a Turkish folk song about a red crane. A crane with red points on his feathers is flying overhead and the man below sees it and implores that if the crane fly over his hometown, he greet his loved ones with sweet words (Say "sugar" say "honey") giving his apologies and explaining that his difficult situation have made it impossible for him to return home. In the version on my laptop, it is an instrumental piece, but my brunch companion sings along. The song is apt as he hasn't been home in over two years. He explains the lyrics to me. A little wave of nostalgia mingled with homesickness overtakes me even though my home isn't Turkey... but the mood is still good.

I haven't had one of these mornings in a while. This Friday is already booked, but I will leave you with a version of the song:

Healing Powers

Unfortunately, I am still behind in posting and we are STILL on the LONG road home to Erbil... but we are a little closer to Shaklawa (and hence Erbil) than we were at the mud huts two posts down. At this point in the road, I was beginning to get a little antsy as 6:00 pm was fast approaching and we still seemed to be far from Erbil and my dinner engagement. Why is it that when you are in a hurry, people suddenly come up with these bright ideas of things we absolutely can't wait until the next time to do?
It is at this juncture that I learned the true reason my Kurdish friends wanted to take the long road home from Suli. Nestled to the side of one of the sharp turns in the road is a little stream steaming with what I can only imagine is sulphur, the waters of which are purportedly healing! A number of cars were parked haphazardly along the side of the road and men, women and children all armed with empty plastic containers (my friend had a 2 liter coke container)were all trudging through the long grass looking for a good path down to the water. Because I was in a hurry, we couldn't just quickly fill our bottle with the stinky water and go, but rather had to loll about the side of the stream, taking photos of each other and children swimming in the stream.

In retrospect, I think the trip along the LONG road was rather nice, but I will be sure to chance it only when I have no other prior appointments.

Counting Sheep

The most plenteous of four-legged Kurdistan friends out causing navigational hazards

Summer Mud Huts; on the LONG Road Home

Some weekends ago, most likely because I had a 6:00pm appointment in Erbil, the friends that I had traveled to Sulemaniyah with decided that it would be a good idea to take the LONG way home to Erbil. And no, I am not talking about traveling to Erbil via the 3 hour long road from Koya as opposed to more dangerous 2-hour Kirkuk road... I am talking about an EVEN LONGER route that takes one on village roads through the mountains between Koya and Shaklawa and then around and back down to Erbil.

It turns out that somewhere along this road is the turn off to the home village of one of the friends in the car... not that we went to his village (or the village of his wife for that matter). But they did stop the car when I, catching a glimpse of the huts pictured below, screamed out, "Look at the turkeys!"

I am not really sure why such an exclamation should prompt the driver to stop, but stop he did. Please view the top two pictures for a view of the turkeys!

I alighted from the SUV, and there I stood, surrounded by turkeys! Then a man in a Kurdish suit came over and gesticulated at me. I, still unable to speak Kurdish (I truly do feel ashamed), could do nothing but follow while he took me on a tour of his family's summer home. Below, please view the barn. I understood that the various fowl (there were chickens as well) sleep here in the evening. The kitchen looked much like this as well, but with bags of grains leaning against the walls and a cooking area in one corner.
And below is the bedroom... complete with electricity! Amazing really considering where we were. A few naughty little girls were running around as we toured the home and barn, but refused to be photographed, running outside and hiding behind the skirts of the women sitting outside under a grass roof engaged in what appeared to be either weaving or food preparation.
And while I took this tour, those left in the car kept waving wildly. They had another destination in mind. I thanked my host (below) and went on my way.