Friday, May 30, 2008
Batman
And tonight I will stay at Cengis' house with his wife (only 1) and their 6 children. Above is Hakan, the oldest boy, Erkan, Serkan and Yakub (spelling?). Gukhan (the boy I traveled from Erbil with) and Hilal are missing. Hilal, the only daughter, took me shopping in the market and was wonderfully warm. She gave me a headscarf that she had enbroidered herself. Apparently, the embroidery speaks to those in the know. I wonder what the pattern on mine says...
And finally, this is Cengis and his wife with their youngest. It is wonderful how close the family is. I suppose given the amount of space a family this size lives in, it is no wonder. There is little privacy. At night, Cengis and his wife will sleep in one room, the two oldest boys in another, Hilal and myself on dushaks on the living room floor with the 3 yougest boys between us.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
sex segregation
Just a few days ago, I was chatting with chatting one of the 2 new sociology professors at our university cafeteria and he commented on how strange he found it that the male and female students don't seem to really mix. This struck me as quite odd as I now find it such a relief to come to the university cafeteria because there are certain students who do not feel obliged to sit with only the same sex at a table. This togetherness has now become the welcomed exception rather than the norm that I expect outside of the campus... although perhaps some of the 'mixing' is due to the fact that some of those comfortable enough to sit with the opposite sex have lived abroad.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Cilantro, basil, rosemary...
... and mint. Those who know me may wonder why someone with a black thumb is posting pictures of plants. (And by the way, I am really pleased that these have not died on me yet. Knock on wood.) It's that I miss food flavored with fresh herbs. The only fresh herb available in markets in Erbil is dill... although I think there are some rosemary bushes lining the walkway to the front gate of the fake Sheraton. And of course, lots of people have mint growing in their gardens. Anyway, if any of you think of things to add to my herb garden that are idiot proof, please send seeds.
What time is it, Mr. Wolf?
And above is the unwrapped present, although it was primarily not the birthday boy, but 2 other kids from another apartment block who were interested. Anyway, the party was nice; the kids played Musical chairs, Musical statues and What time is it Mr. Wolf? Following that, the adults engaged in adult type fun - a double bill movie night: Ice Age I and II!
kidnapping, corruption and illegal imprisonment: investors beware
After over a year of difficulty (stemming from a construction project which Mr. R's company completed, but was not paid for), he started a law suit against his employers (which we will call M Co.). His employers laughed and said (translation into English), "What kind of game do you think you are playing? We OWN Kurdistan! We can buy anyone." These threats turned out not to be false claims. The first scary incident was when the court engineers went to survey the site. Mr. R was kidnapped during the visit of the court engineers and taken to an office belonging to M Co. while they bribed the engineers to under-represent the work done. At that time, an employee of M Co. tried to take away Mr. R's camera containing photos of the site. Fortunately the camera had already been sent off-site with another engineer.
A few months later, in November 2007, Mr. R was arrested on false charges and put in a jail in Sulemaniya where he stayed for 3 weeks. During that time, it was discovered that his lawyer had been bought by the other side and had been hiding out in Germany while all scheduled court cases continued without the awareness of Mr. R and with the non-attendance of Mr. R's lawyer, a lawyer who despite having complaints filed against him at the Association of lawyers - he had been accused of fraud and other such legal infractions before - is again giving seminars and practicing law in Erbil. A new lawyer was found and since then, Mr. R has won every court case. However, this doesn't mean the worries are over. Although the court cases were all decided in Mr. R's favor, still no movement to pay the debt has been made. Hence Mr. R contacted government officials to urge them to enforce the court's decision, all of whom were supportive of his claims. But now, it appears there are new players on the field. It has surfaced that yet another politician is involved... and has been involved all along with the corruption being perpetrated by M Co. This has caused the other politicians (those supportive of enforcing the court decisions) to back off. Perhaps the weak system of government can't support fractions between politicians in the same or opposing parties? I don't really know, but am curious to see what will happen after the Turkish media has been alerted.
Please note that there is another side to this story. In Kurdistan, there exists not only those small companies that can't defend themselves here in the absence of enforced policies and laws, but also those in on the corruption - big companies using bribery to get the plumb contracts and then charging high fees for shoddy materials and workmanship... or just taking the money and running with the job left unfinished.
Parking Ticket
Brokeback...
These three were in my office two days ago to discuss/hand-in final research projects. I hope the cowboy hats (believe it or not, I have heard it is a burgeoning fashion here) are NOT indicative of sentiments that favor cowboy diplomacy as a method of conflict resolution. I know that at least one of these guys is a risk-taker, but I am hoping none of their essays demonstrate the overly-simple, dichotomous world view favored by other cowboys active in the political arena here...
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Culture Club
Picnic Wear
Visitor's View of Hawler
with students...
MRTSHMONY SHRINE - May 6th, 2008
Above is a picture (by Tiziana) of the Mrtshmony Shrine in Ainkawa. After a walking tour (Tuesday last week), we ended up at the Mrtshmony Shrine. As luck turned out, May 6th was the day when all the Chaldeans travel to the shrine to pay homage to a woman who suffered for her faith under a tyrannical king who killed her 7 children in front of her before killing her. While we were there, the number of people kept multiplying exponentially, many of whom were distributing sweets to all gathered outside the shrine. Wonderful luck really to experience this. Although I entered the shrine, I could not image how to translate Mrtshmony into English and couldn't recall this story. If anyone knows more, please let me know.
Shaklawa... Finally
We made friends with these gentlement while trying to photograph the birds flying to the nests perched in every nestable spot overhead.
Tawsi Melek Sanjak
I will however try asking Ezster (who sent the bottom photo of the sanjak of Shekhan).
Lalish Revisited
The above photo is of a road leading to the highest point of the mountain/hill overlooking the temple. The white areas house alcoves with more spaces to light the oil lamps at night.
(Above photo by Tiziana) These women were coming down as we were going up. They eyed our shoes suspiciously, but our guide had told us we could put them back on after leaving the temple.
And after wandering, we stopped for tea at the house of the family on the left: the Faqirs. Apparently, two families live at Lalish; the Faqirs and the Babachawish. My guide this time was an English-speaking man from the Faqir family with a desire to speak better English and study at our university (His first degree was completed at the University of Mosul).
Anyway, he tried to explain to me about the families and castes of the Yezidi society, but it was somewhat confusing. Of course there are plenty of websites to illustrate this more clearly, but it seems that the Mir (descended from Tawsi Melek) is the spiritual leader and under him are the Sheikhs (descended from 6 of the 7 great angels), the Pirs (descended from Sheikh Adi -in one of the tombs at Lalish) and the Murids (majority of Yezidis). I guess my new friend is a Pir?
Baa Baa
Sheep, goats and a donkey... You don't know how much these animals make me happy. It gives me opportunity to use the first words I learned in Kurdish (on a road trip to Sulemaniyah): mar, bizen, ker... Good thing sheep don't lunch on laundry.
And these sheep are ones spotted from the bus from Amedi. Unfortunately I missed catching the shepherds with my lens, but they were wearing Arab headdresses (kefiya, agal and all) and some rode donkeys. More bedouin?
Amedi
After not finding a chaikhana, we left Amedi (which is build on a kind of natural citadel) to find a restaurant. At the restaurant, we asked someone to point out the gate. If you look at the rocks in the photo above, you will see a hole in the rocks. This is the gate I plan to visit next time.
And this final photo shows a friendly woman from Zakho who allowed us to take her picture. After taking the photo, her brother (also wearing traditional clothing) pointed out the gate to us in perfect English. It turns out he was visiting family in Kurdistan, but actually lives in London, Ontario!
Saddam's Palace
Is it possible this is the palace in this article that was blown up while the media watched as a political gesture?
Dream City
I post this picture because only last week on Al Jazeera, a journalist in Basra delivered his report from a park in Basra in front of group of young people enjoying bumper cars. It was the first time in ages that people felt safe enough to congregate in a public place just for fun.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Halamata
The above photo is of the peshmerga's hut on top of the mountain. We stopped here and one of the peshmerga came with us to help us locate the site.
Above is the other peshmerga watching us start the descent.
I include this photo only because I was rather taken with the wild poppies and the view of Dohuk from above.
Finally, we found Halamata! There were three sections each containing about 9 figures; 8 facing left, and one at the front who appeared to be receiving them... a king receiving the Gods? One of those internet source suggested that it might have been sculpted to commemorate a military triumph. The above photo is from the center segment.
A closer view of the right segment of the relief (this one taken by Tiziana). Here you can see that the gods (do the starred disks above their heads indicated that they are gods?) are standing on the backs of animals that appear to be part horse, part lion and I am not sure, but they might be winged. That source further suggested that the gods might include; Adad (a storm god - although I saw none holding a lightning bolt nor an axe), Ashur (god of war- holds an arrow), Enlil (god of the sky), Ishtar (queen of the night? goddess of love and war?), Sun and more...
Anyway, it is shame that someone had defaced some of the work with blue spray paint. One entire image in the left segment was painted blue. Why is it that people here are so uninterested? Is it because historic places not so interesting as potential picnic sites or modern buildings? Is it because these images are not Kurdish in origin? Anyway, I really wish that Mosul wasn't so dangerous as I want to see more; the Assyrian palaces in Ninevah for starters!